Print Settings
A practical reference for the slicer settings that matter most, what they trade off, and sane starting values. Settings live in the slicer (OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer, Bambu Studio, Cura); the names below are close across all of them.
Change one thing at a time
When tuning, adjust a single variable and reprint a small test. Changing five settings at once tells you nothing about which one helped.
Sensible starting points
Good defaults for a 0.4 mm nozzle in PLA/PETG. Tune from here.
| Setting | Draft / fast | Standard | Fine / detail |
|---|---|---|---|
| Layer height | 0.28–0.3 mm | 0.2 mm | 0.12 mm |
| Walls (perimeters) | 2 | 3 | 3–4 |
| Top/bottom layers | 3–4 | 4–5 | 5–6 |
| Infill | 10 % | 15–20 % | 15 % |
| Print speed | 150+ mm/s | 60–120 mm/s | 40–60 mm/s |
Rule of thumb: layer height ≤ 75 % of nozzle diameter (so ≤ 0.3 mm on a 0.4 mm nozzle), and line width ≈ 100–120 % of nozzle diameter.
Layers
- Layer height — the single biggest lever on quality vs. time. Halving it roughly doubles print time. 0.2 mm is the everyday default; drop to 0.12 mm for detail, raise to 0.28 mm for speed/strength on chunky parts.
- First layer height — often set thicker (e.g. 0.24–0.3 mm) for reliable adhesion, even when the rest is finer.
- Line/extrusion width — wider lines are stronger and faster; narrower resolve finer features. 0.42–0.45 mm is a good default on a 0.4 mm nozzle.
Walls, top/bottom & infill
For most functional parts, more walls beat more infill — perimeters carry load far more efficiently than internal lattice.
| Setting | Effect |
|---|---|
| Walls / perimeters | Outer shell loops. 2–3 for general use; 4+ for strong parts. The cheapest way to add real strength. |
| Top/bottom layers | Solid caps. Too few = pillowing/gaps on top surfaces. 4–5 layers (≈ 0.8–1 mm) is safe. |
| Infill density | 10–15 % for display parts, 20–30 % for functional, 40 %+ or solid only for high load. Diminishing returns above ~50 %. |
| Infill pattern | Gyroid — isotropic, strong in all directions, good default. Grid/lines — fast. Honeycomb/cubic — strong but slower. |
Temperature tuning
Start from the filament ranges and refine with test prints.
- Temperature tower — a model with segments at descending temps (e.g. 230 → 200 °C in 5° steps). Pick the segment with the best surface, least stringing, and good overhangs/layer bonding. Most slicers can insert the temperature changes for you.
- Hotter = better layer adhesion and flow, but more stringing, oozing, and worse overhangs. Cooler = crisper detail but risk of under-extrusion and weak layers.
- Flow rate / extrusion multiplier — calibrate so walls are the intended thickness (a single-wall cube test). Over-extrusion causes blobs and rough tops; under-extrusion causes gaps.
Speed
- Faster printing amplifies every other problem (ringing, poor adhesion, under-extrusion). The outer wall speed matters most for looks — keep it slower (e.g. 30–50% of infill speed) for a clean surface.
- Classic Marlin bed-slingers top out well below marketing numbers; Klipper + input shaping or CoreXY machines are what actually sustain 200+ mm/s.
- First layer is always printed slow (20–30 mm/s) for adhesion.
Retraction & stringing
Retraction pulls filament back during travel moves so the nozzle doesn't ooze wisps between features.
| Extruder | Retraction distance | Speed |
|---|---|---|
| Direct-drive | 0.5–1.5 mm | 25–45 mm/s |
| Bowden | 3–6 mm | 25–45 mm/s |
- Too much retraction → clicking, grinding, clogs, under-extrusion after travels.
- Print a retraction/stringing test to dial it in. Also lower nozzle temp and dry the filament — wet filament is a top cause of stringing (especially PETG).
Cooling (part-cooling fan)
| Material | Fan |
|---|---|
| PLA | 100 % (after the first 1–2 layers) |
| PETG | 30–50 % |
| ABS / ASA | Off or very low |
| Nylon / PC | Off / low |
| TPU | 40–100 % |
Cooling solidifies fresh plastic — essential for PLA overhangs and small layers, but on ABS/ASA/nylon it causes layer splitting and warping. Reduce fan on very small layers to avoid overheating a tiny area (or enable "minimum layer time").
Supports
Overhangs steeper than roughly 45–60° from vertical need support; shallower usually print fine. Bridges over gaps often need none.
- Support type — normal/grid (everywhere) vs tree/organic (branches that use less material and mar the surface less).
- Z distance / top gap — the air gap between support and part. Larger = easier removal but rougher surface; ~0.1–0.2 mm is typical.
- Support interface — a dense top layer under the part for a cleaner supported surface.
- Dissolvable supports — PVA/BVOH (water) or HIPS (limonene) on a second extruder leave no scars. See Filaments → Support materials.
- Design to avoid supports where possible (chamfer overhangs, orient the part, split into pieces).
Bed adhesion helpers
| Helper | Use it for |
|---|---|
| Skirt | Priming the nozzle and checking bed level before the part starts (doesn't touch the part). |
| Brim | Tall or small-footprint parts, or warp-prone corners. A flat collar around the base for extra grip. |
| Raft | A full sacrificial base under the part — good for rough beds or tricky materials; wastes plastic. |
Pair with the right bed temperature, a clean plate, and correct Z-offset — see Basics → Bed adhesion.
Nice-to-have settings
- Ironing — a slow pass over top surfaces to smooth them (nice for flat tops, adds time).
- Seam position — where each layer starts/stops. "Aligned"/"back" hides the seam on one edge; "sharpest corner" tucks it into geometry.
- Z-hop — lifts the nozzle on travel to avoid knocking prints (can worsen stringing).
- Adaptive/variable layer height — thin layers on curved areas, thick on vertical walls, to balance detail and speed.
Calibration order
When setting up a new printer or filament, calibrate roughly in this order:
- Bed level / Z-offset → good first layer
- Flow rate (extrusion multiplier)
- Temperature tower
- Retraction / stringing
- Pressure advance / linear advance (Klipper/Marlin)
- Speed and acceleration (input shaping on Klipper)